Words: Camilla Harrison

The Christian Blanken presentation in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House was undoubtedly my favourite collection of the week. Blanken is known for his signature look of ‘chic sportswear’ and from this collection, he has certainly established his own unique and luxurious style.

His Autumn/Winter collection was displayed in a brightly lit, white room and needed nothing more to act as a backdrop for the striking models that glided past. Just like the setting, the clothes needed no accessories or elaborate hair and makeup to complete the look; the garments spoke for themselves. From leather leggings to diaphanous printed chiffon skirts, silhouette is clearly of utmost importance to Blanken. The line of the garments was clean and elegant, whilst the choice of materials gave the Christian Blanken woman a slight unruly edge. A classic little black dress, with a boat neckline was given a modern twist with a leather band gathering the dress at the waist.

At first glance, the clothes seemed to follow the motto of ‘less is more’; yet look closer at Blanken’s garments and you will see the hidden and unexpected detail. A favourite piece of mine was the midnight blue silk dress with an uneven hem-line from front to back; the material was so fluid it rippled like water as the model strode across the stage. As she walked away, you caught a quick glimpse of ruched detail at the centre back of the dress.

Blanken’s interest for this collection seemed to focus on the upper half of the body; models were clad in skintight leggings or perfectly tailored trousers, and thus the torso was an area for more voluminous and interesting shapes. The leather jacket in a beautiful jewel toned purple, was made even more dramatic with the inclusion of an ample cowl neck. In contrast, many pieces were collarless, such as the sleeveless, leather mid-length coat, (which I am sure will soon be seen popping up everywhere on the high street).

The climax of the collection was a beautiful magenta silk-jersey maxi dress, which stood out as an accent amongst the largely monochrome palette. The nature of the silk-jersey fabric meant that the dress draped freely off the body whilst at the same time, fitting in just the right places. When in motion, the dress flew past the eye like bright ink dispersing in water.

What I adored about Christian Blanken’s collection was how each piece stood so fantastically on its own, yet the whole collection merged together with such ease. To my eye, the Blanken woman has a hint of rebellion underneath the clean and cool exterior; she understands fashion and pays attention to every detail. This is a woman to be taken seriously; just like Blanken himself has proved with this immaculate collection.