Words: Chloe Brunton-Dunn

With the ever evolving, fast pace world of fashion and the hungry consumer culture we live in, it is extremely hard to come up with an innovative new idea for a fashion business. However, it would seem that former pop star Lily Allen has done just that.

Leaving the world of music behind her to create, with her sister Sarah her new venture ‘Lucy in Disguise’ a new vintage fashion business.

The glamorous and spacious shop is situated in the busy and bustling streets of Covent Garden. The aim of their new business is to make “Vintage style attainable”. Their unique concept is that not only can you buy, but there is also the option of renting the beautiful and extravagant garments. This opportunity  means that you can buy items you would not usually be able to afford can now wear – if only for a day.

Garments range from the eras of the 20’s to the 80’s, catering for a wide span of vintage styles and tastes.

The name ‘Lucy In Disguise’ is taken from a famous Beatles song, and the shop’s website blog is written by ‘Lucy’ making the brand really come to life. With the ‘about’ section of the website describing her and creating a persona for this character.

In a shop where the sales assistants are also stylists it seems the perfect shopping environment with advice on hand. Furthermore, you can go downstairs and have a complete makeover of hair or makeup with prices ranging from £25 to £55 and even book private styling sessions and use the VIP dressing suite. With group booking themed packages such as ‘Evelyn’s Tea Party’ the atmosphere LID creates is fun, fashionable and exciting.

Open seven days a week Lily Allen certainly seems to have created a successful new fashion venture! With their tag line reading ‘LUCY IN DISGUISE – THE MODERN GIRL’S WAY TO DO VINTAGE ‘ it would seem that the girls have certainly achieved their goal.

The future for ‘Lucy in Disguise’ looks bright too, with the launch of their own Lucy line designed by Lily and Sarah released in June and sold in store and on the website priced from £90 to £350. The pieces in the collection will be named after important people or memorable places related to vintage garments such as ‘Fortnum and Mason’, a perfect compliment to their enigmatic ‘Lucy’ brand and business.

To check out the store: 

10-13 KING STREET
COVENT GARDEN
LONDON
WC2E 8HN
TELEPHONE: 0207 240 6590

http://lucyindisguiselondon.com/

For a documentary of ‘Lucy in Disguise’ watch Channel 4’s ‘Lilly Allen: From Riches to Rags’

Brilliant direction and curation at the V&A will make this a memorable exhibition for years to come

Since its opening on March 12th, I have been working as a host at the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A museum in South Kensington.

It is the first of its kind in that Yamamoto’s menswear is being shown alongside his womenswear garments, and this has never been seen before. The curator, Ligaya Salazar, has referred to the exhibition as a retrospective. The garments cover Yamamoto’s vast 30 year career, being shown alongside multimedia such as videos of fashion shows, past season catalogues and even highlights from Yamamoto’s music career.

What is most striking about the exhibition is that the garments are on open display; inviting visitors to get up close and personal with the fabric and cut of the clothes. Visitors can touch the garments, but within reason, only very gently and carefully! Fabric is of utmost importance to Yohji when he designs, and he is known for his idiosyncratic cutting techniques. The exhibition really allows for the garments to be appreciated like they should be.

The exhibition space is really quite striking; all the clothes are set on simple mannequins under extremely bright lights, so every inch of the garment is visible and can be admired. The mannequins are set out as if in a ballroom, with men and women on either side approaching each other to dance.

I had the pleasure of meeting Yohji when he came to see the exhibition, and he painted some figures on the bare white walls. They are all very focused on the ‘shape’ of a woman, in particular, her back. This is Yohji’s favourite part of a woman’s body, and this is clear to see when you look at the garments; many feature the most detail at the back or are backless.

This exhibition is a must-see; even those who are not fashion aficionado’s will appreciate the garments, if not only for the incredible skill and craft that can be seen.

The exhibition runs until July 12th.

Next we have a free workshop planned on the 12th March from 2pm until 5pm, where you can learn now to make one of the hottest looks from the catwalk at a fraction of the price! Best of all you don’t have to be an expert at sewing to participate because this workshop caters for all skill levels.

The workshop is going to be taught by Charley Helfet author of ‘Chic Cheat’ blog- http://chiccheat.co.uk/ in which she shows readers how to create some of the on-trend items seen on TV, catwalks and celebrities but for less than half the price.

We are having a vote on which item you will be shown how to create and make for yourself during the workshop to take home and wear! All you need to bring along is a great attitude and a jumper/ dress that you wish to customise. To get the most out of the workshop you just need to bring a jumper or dress in a similar colour and style to the ones shown below.

Email secretary@thefashionsociety.co.uk telling us what number item you’d like to make at the workshop. For example write “vote 1″ for the Chanel dress etc.

Voting closes on 8th March!

There are only 20 spaces for the workshop so if you would like to sign up to attend the workshop please email: president@thefashionsociety.co.uk with ‘Workshop 1′ in the subject box and put your name, email address and telephone number in the body of the email. Places will be allocated on a first come, first served basis, so be quick! The deadline for signing up is 1pm on the 8th March. We will then announce which item will be made, by the end of the day.

My main interest and knowledge within contemporary fashion is womenswear, so I was excited and curious when faced with the prospect of attending two menswear shows.

Christopher Shannon
My first show was Christopher Shannon at the BFC Show Space at Somerset House. I usually decide to watch the show before reading the designer’s press release; I prefer to make my own judgements before reading about the designer’s influences and aims for his collection. Somewhat unorthodox but I feel that this way you can be truly objective.

Opening with a fantastic soundtrack, the collection was very much focused on a sportswear theme, mainly due to the use of fabrics and design details; the main pieces included low-slung trousers, flat caps and track tops. However, the unexpected crept in, by combining these urban looks with knitted jumpers and shirts with frilled detail. I think the mainly monochrome palette worked well and I was particularly fond of the use of quilting in the jackets; a very popular look at the moment.

To my eye, there was something that didn’t quite work with what Shannon had aimed to do. The various patterns and textures didn’t complement each other (which of course isn’t a prerequisite for a successful collection) but the contrast didn’t result in something aesthetically pleasing. However, after reading about Shannon’s ideas for the collection, I appreciated what he was aiming to achieve.
Shannon’s influence and inspiration is that wherever you look in the world, sportswear seems to creep in, for example; old track tops that appear on landfill sites, are worn by tribes alongside their traditional garments.

One of the aspects of the show I liked very much was the rucksacks and across the body bags; these were a wonderful mix of urban cool and traditional prints. Personally, this show was not a favourite of mine; and with all due respect to Mr Shannon, it didn’t quite give me the excitement I had hoped for!

D.GNAK
D.GNAK at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was certainly more to my taste. Korean based designer Dong Jun Kang is known for his exotic twist on tailoring; and his A/W 2011 collection was definitely highly anticipated by many.

What I adored about this collection was how immaculately tailored the garments were, yet there were imperfections; for example, lapels were left un-hemmed and the vents at the back of the jackets were rough edged and sometimes unlined, letting them flap as the models walked down the catwalk. I adored the fabrics that Kang made use of; heavy mustard corduroys combined with checks and tweeds.

The collection reminded me of an Oxford University Professor who had somehow lost his way. Models wore their tailored suits with trainers (provided by New Balance) and I thought this gave the collection a real charm. The standout pieces for me were the duffle coats and the caped coat (Kang himself describes it as the Sherlock Holmes coat), and I predict big things for this style. The way I would describe these garments is as ‘pieced together tailoring’; with mix and match textures such as shearling, corduroy and luxury wool.

A favourite amongst most of the audience would have to be the rucksacks; made of patent leather in a variety of colours, they were childlike while at the same time very practical and urban. There was even a space for your umbrella, a necessity for the modern gentleman!

This event pushes the boundaries of how we create, consume and enjoy fashion. Fashion shows can be inaccessible, predictable and bland, The Fashion Factory explodes the remits of fashion for one night and allows pure creativity to shine.

Guests will be encouraged to interact with the ‘models’ or to get involved, bring your sketchbook, camera or notebook and engage with the fashion on show.

The true beauty and worth of fashion lies in one-off acts or moments of genius and talent, it’s about time we all stopped sophisticating and start enjoying the primal, immediate pleasures that fashion can bring!

Blanken's expressive colour palate was a welcome change for and Autumn/Winter show

His Autumn/Winter collection was displayed in a brightly lit, white room and needed nothing more to act as a backdrop for the striking models that glided past. Just like the setting, the clothes needed no accessories or elaborate hair and makeup to complete the look; the garments spoke for themselves. From leather leggings to diaphanous printed chiffon skirts, silhouette is clearly of utmost importance to Blanken. The line of the garments was clean and elegant, whilst the choice of materials gave the Christian Blanken woman a slight unruly edge. A classic little black dress, with a boat neckline was given a modern twist with a leather band gathering the dress at the waist.

At first glance, the clothes seemed to follow the motto of ‘less is more’; yet look closer at Blanken’s garments and you will see the hidden and unexpected detail. A favourite piece of mine was the midnight blue silk dress with an uneven hem-line from front to back; the material was so fluid it rippled like water as the model strode across the stage. As she walked away, you caught a quick glimpse of ruched detail at the centre back of the dress.

Blanken's collection has a great sense of youth while the pieces are brilliantly crafted

The climax of the collection was a beautiful magenta silk-jersey maxi dress, which stood out as an accent amongst the largely monochrome palette. The nature of the silk-jersey fabric meant that the dress draped freely off the body whilst at the same time, fitting in just the right places. When in motion, the dress flew past the eye like bright ink dispersing in water.

What I adored about Christian Blanken’s collection was how each piece stood so fantastically on its own, yet the whole collection merged together with such ease. To my eye, the Blanken woman has a hint of rebellion underneath the clean and cool exterior; she understands fashion and pays attention to every detail. This is a woman to be taken seriously; just like Blanken himself has proved with this immaculate collection.

The good humor and sheer energy at the Rodnik presentation was infectious, a real stand out show for LFW

“Conceptual, material, so sexual” was the words that designer Philip Colbert sang at his show at the Gazelli Art House. An ironic song performed by himself and his ‘band’ is integral to a visit to a Rodnik Band presentation as Colbert writes a song based on each collection. The presentation was anything but conventional.

The Gazelli Art House is a vast space, and currently home to Fired Up, a new display of work by five contemporary artists. The graphic artwork was the perfect setting for Colbert’s designs. Upon entering the gallery, it was hard to miss the four models standing on the podiums. The first and most striking was quite literally, Duchamp’s famous piece “Fountain”, in dress form. The piece was translated onto the body by way of a short dress adorned with white sequins and held on the body with a halter neck tie. These pieces could definitely not be accused of hiding in the shadows!

Rodnik's emphasis on the convergence of art and fashion folllows in the footsteps of fashion greats such as Yves Saint Laurent who recognised that a great designer shares a lot with a brilliant artist

Throughout the garments that were shown, some on models, others hanging simply from the ceiling, it is clear that there was much more of a focus on surface decoration than shape. One particular favourite dress of mine however, was the Dali Lobster dress. The idea of a lobster dress is one that is quite humorous; but in contrast, the long form and red satin made it a really quite beautiful garment. The beauty was in the juxtaposition of a surreal idea with an elegant line of the dress.

Far from purely conceptual Rodnik's imaginative celebrations of great modern art are highly wearable

Colbert clearly understands that fashion is not a one-dimensional thing; it exists in culture and the presentation proved just that. Fashion, art and music all amalgamated into one; after all, where would one be without the other?

For more on the wonderful world of the Rodnik Band visit: www.therodnikband.com/

The one to watch: all eyes are on David Koma as he reveals his Topshop Collection and prepares for LFW

I can still remember the video team for Arts London News going to interview him and returning with stories of how lovely and down to earth he was. Recently married, he swapped tips with the producer who was planning her big day, little did they realise he’d become the biggest name to emerge in fashion this year.

Constantly building on the success of his past collections, Koma’s name is becoming synonymous with an excellent brand of ultra-modern femininity.

Koma's collaboration with Topshop has produced an incredible luxe-line for the chain

With prices between £100-£350 (no doubt doubled in later e-bay sales) this truly is a great opportunity to buy into Koma’s talent.

With only 30 of each piece made the collection boasts some fantastic limited-edition treasures.

On working with the Arcadia brand, Koma said: “Topshop signifies youth and modernity and its spirit evokes ‘cool London’. It was really exciting to work with the Topshop team as I felt they understood me as a designer and appreciated my need to make a high quality product without compromising the design aesthetic, quality of fabric or finishing. They helped make my vision a reality and I’m thrilled with the result.”

Write-ups of the collection are grabbing headlines, with the likes of Grazia, Vogue and even The Daily Mail, all in praise there is no question over Koma’s universal appeal.

The Fashion Society haven’t been this excited about a high street collaboration…EVER, see you in line xx

Barbie didn't know whether to be flattered or frightened of her likeness to Ms Price

The perfect little heels, ‘funky’ denim or princess ball gown?

Fashion is an essential part of of the fun of dolls, part of the reason Ken etc didn’t have quite the same allure.

For many aspiring designers and stylists deciding what their Barbies was going to wear was the earliest form of experimenting with fashion, more so when you branched out to make your own designs.

Realising that the stories behind fashion are more interesting than the imposed Barbie/ Ken narrative Japanese-inspired toy brand Harumika have created a whole range of toys that allow children (and grown ups with a little too much time on their hands) to create their own collections and brand.

Though I find the online-avatar aspect of the site a little unnerving, it is fantastic that it is now so easy for children to participate in creating fashion.

Anna Chong's collection proves that life in plastic can be fantastic

Chong put so much thought and energy into the collection that she even experimented with cold meats for weeks, trying everything from slami to finest parma ham to recreate Ga Ga’s show stopping meat-dress!

While this all might seem a little bizarre it is great to see innovative fashion celebrated and even better that an LCF student is at the forefront.

For more information about Anna visit her UAL Showtime page

Chloe's steps in their most obvious form

So maybe that’s a little extreme but it is great to spot emerging young stars and to know your witnessing the start of their bright careers. Last July as I wandered the sweltering halls and corridors of Camberwell’s summer show I was struck by one 3D designer in particular.

Chloe Lee Carson had created a multifunctional product that offered solutions to many of the conundrums that creative professionals face. With technology becoming more mobile we are no longer as chained to our desks as we once were. For the generation below us desks might actually seem quite redundant, work and play is hand held and on the go. Why do we need to invest in one piece of furniture that, let’s face it often becomes a dumping place for well intended in-trays, to do lists and fragments of inspiration?

Having said this nothing quite beats the feeling of sitting down at your desk ready to face the tirade of emails, or to start that dissertation, cover letter, funding application, competition entry, article, novel etc…

This is where Chloe Lee Carson steps in (excuse the pun). As part of her final project Chloe designed a multi functional 3D product that can be used as a desk, storage, seating or step ladder.

Not only does her product have a great aesthetic quality but it is great to see the way in which she has responded to everyday experiences to create a product that serves a utilitarian purpose while also having a sense of fun and creativity.

The fashion Society will be working with Chloe on a unique project in which we hope to get people thinking and working together. For more information check the blog posts and be sure to come to our next event at the London College of Communication on 2 February 2011…

For more information about Chloe and to get your hands on her innovative design visit: http://chloe.myshopify.com/