Words: Camilla Harrison
Set in the exquisite Raphael
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Gallery, renowned haute couture designer, Stéphane Rolland, showed his collection of garments so sublime that I, amongst many others, was truly left in awe of his talent and vision.
Rolland was not a designer I knew much about prior to the show however I was aware of his clothes being more of a modern take on Haute Couture, reinventing and questioning the traditional view of a couture collection.
This collaboration with the V&A featured key pieces from his latest collections; each garment was a work of art in itself, but the show flowed as if one was wandering through a fairy tale.
When I recall what my first thoughts were as the show began, two words stuck in my mind; ethereal glamour. Now these two words may seem somewhat contradictive, but I feel this is what makes Rolland such a unique designer. The models floated onto the catwalk; strong and powerful but at the same time they seemed untouchable and magical. The flowing and textural fabrics paired with ruby red lips, dark eyes and long, bouncing ringlets of hair (reminiscent of a 1970’s Jerry Hall) created an immediate sense of drama and magnificence.
The garments all had a strong focus on structure; various elements seen were low or open backs, fishtail silhouettes, asymmetry or one sleeved dresses and jumpsuits, all with an emphasis on the form of the upper body. Certain parts of the body were exaggerated, as the eye was drawn to an exaggerated cocoon like shoulder in one dress or an oversized lapel in another.
In retrospect, the collection had an abundance of different themes and ideas; there seemed to be military influence in one garment while another seemed to emulate the figure of a mermaid or sea creature. Exposed zips adorned dresses as well as pleating, ruching and ‘bandaged’ sleeves in others. However, the genius of Rolland’s design is that nothing looked ‘busy’ or over the top. All the garments exuded elegance, most likely due to the carefully selected colour palette. Stark whites and vampish blacks danced amongst a sea of deep blue velvets and satin nudes.
What made the clothes even more desirable was that they featured ideas that can easily be translated into clothes worn everyday. Particular details that stood out to me were a simple yet incredibly chic leather belt; two bands of leather were knotted and tied together around the waist, and also the inclusion of jeweled leggings worn with the shorter dresses.
This collaboration between Rolland and the V&A could not have been more successful. The museum which houses art, sculptures, artefacts (the list goes on) is how I imagine a view into Rolland’s mind would look. Packed to the brim with ideas and inspiration, but an end result that is perfectly considered and presented.
For more information on past Fashion in Motion Events and to see what's coming up visit: The V&A
All images courtesy of: V&A Fashion In Motion Stéphane Rolland © V &A Images